The Overland Route From India (Part 2)

Figures 1 and 2, the ports of Boulak and Atfeh.

In our last we left the homeward bound travellers at the Grand Hotel upon the Desert of Suez, from whence we are now to trace their progress to Marseilles, which port they will, in all probability, have reached simultaneously with the publication of this article.

Continuing the route across the Desert, as indicated by the stations established by Mr. Waghorn, we arrive at the close of the second day from Suez, at Cairo, the modern capital of Egypt. At this celebrated city, and in its immediate vicinity, there is so much to arrest attention that the traveller will, in all probability, feel disposed to delay his further progress homewards while he visits the Pyramids of Gizeh, about 10 miles to the south-west; the citadel, situated to the east of the town, and remarkable as having been the scene of the slaughter of the Mamelukes—completely commands the city, but is itself covered by a high range of mountains in the rear, where & square fort, erected by the Pacha, is garrisoned by 400 men; the obelisk at Matarea (the site of the ancient Heliopolis); the tombs of the Mamelukes; the forests of agate in the rocky hollows of the Desert; and the summer palace of the Pacha. Within the walls of the citadel the chief objects of interest are the new palace of the Pacha, the mint, Joseph’s well, and the magnificent view from the ramparts, extending over the whole city, the land of Goshen, the Pyramids, &c., and bounded only by the eternal Desert. Hill’s family hotel at Cairo, will afford the traveller every possible comfort during his sojourn, and nothing requisite to his enjoyment or further convenience on the route, will be asked for there in vain. Houses, furnished or unfurnished, may also be had by those who prefer such accommodation; and for the satisfaction of invalids, there are English medical men in regular practice to be met with.

The Roosevelts At Luxor, Egypt

Theodore Roosevelt, full-length portrait, on horseback, facing front, at Luxor, Egypt

Luxor, Upper Egypt, March 21.—From Assuan to Luxor is 126 miles and Col. Roosevelt and his family covered this distance today in the regular express, arriving here early in the afternoon. From Luxor to Cairo is 454 miles, and the ex-President will reach the Egyptian capital Thursday. There a state carriage will be in waiting, so that Col. Roosevelt may visit the Khedive at the Abdin palace. The Khedive will return the call in person. This will be the first occasion on which the ruler has so honored a private citizen.

On arrival at Luxor today the distinguished Americans were greeted by a great number of fellow citizens, many American tourists having waited at this place to see the former President. Col. Roosevelt held a reception this afternoon at the Winter Place hotel.

Waghorn’s Overland Route From India

Figures number 1 through 4, as described in the article text.

We are enabled, through the courtesy of Mr. Waghorn, to present our readers with a detail of his route from India to England; and as the subject involves considerations of vast importance to this country as well as to Europe generally, we have selected it for illustration in our present number. This gentleman has now long been known to the world as the indefatigable and persevering author of the overland route to India. Brought up from an early age in the pilot service of the East India Company, and having distinguished himself in the Arracan expedition, he was in the year 1827 recommended by Lord Combermere to the Court of Directors, as a proper person to open steam intercourse between this country and India. To this he devoted himself; and in 1829 his views had attracted so much public attention, that he was selected by the Company to take out despatches, and report upon the route by the Red Sea. For his successful accomplishment of this duty, he received, on his arrival at Bombay, the thanks of the Governor General in council; and the circumstance of his having proceeded down the Red Sea in an open boat, when disappointed of his steamer, the Enterprise, at Suez, was particularly adverted to, as indicating the zeal with which he had applied himself to the service of the public. Since the year 1831, the endeavours of this gentleman to accomplish his object, by the formation of establishments in Egypt, for the passage of mails and passengers, have been unceasing, and are at length crowned with perfect success. Upon one occasion, in the year 1836, it is recollected that he succeeded in getting a mail from Bombay to London within 60 days, and the rapidity of his method so impressed the public, the Government, and the Board of Directors, with the advantages to be derived from his line of route, that steamers were forthwith placed at his disposal for facilitating his plans; and so successfully had he availed himself of the resources opened to him, as well by the patronage of the Government at home, as by his personal intimacy with Mehemet Ali, that the Indian mail of July 1841 passed from the post-office of London to the post-office of Bombay in 30 days and 10 hours. There can be no question that this gentleman is eminently entitled to the gratitude of his country, or, we may justly say, of all Europe, for the genius, zeal, and self-devotion by which he has so materially shortened the distance between two points of the globe, so important and so essential to the welfare of each other.

Visitor to Pharaoh’s Tomb Engages in Hunt for Fact and Fiction

Wearied by Long and Difficult Journey, Kitchen Calls Royal Resting Place Hollow Mockery as Exhibit.

BY KARL K. KITCHEN

Cartoon image of the author on a mule being con fronted by the giant ghost of a pharoah, with his party looking on surprised from behind.

If you are planning a trip to Egypt to visit the tomb of King Tut-ankh-Amen take my advice—which is the same as Punch has always given those about to marry—Don’t.

For the tomb of King Tut-ankh-Amen—vulgarly called King Tut—is the most overrated mecca for tourists, boobs and travelers In the world today.

I know, for I have just been there! And take it from old Dr. Kitchen, if I may drop from my Cardinal Newman English to the vernacular of Broadway, it is the bunk.

To be sure, if one is an Egyptologist this last resting place of the dear departed is of considerable importance. But so few of us are! In fact, before I went to Luxor I hardly had a bowing acquaintance with a hieroglyphic. And even today, after many ghoulish adventures In the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings, I doubt if I would recognize a dozen of the 290 characters in the Egyptian sign language—bless its dear funny old alphabet.

However, what I write Is not a text book for university professors with long white beards, or those who have made a life study of the times and customs of the Pharaohs. There are enough musty volumes of such subjects. I am writing for the much maligned man in the street. And I am going to set forth the facts about the tomb of King Tut-ankh-Amen as I found them.

Uncover Body of King Tut After Delicate Operation

Howard Carter and one of the foremen work on the innermost coffin of King Tutankhamun.

Cairo, Nov. 5—(AP)—The body of King Tut-ankh-Amen is now definitely believed to have been discovered, a communique issued in Arabic by the Ministry of Works announces.

Tut-ankh-Amen’s tomb was re-opened October 12 in the presence of Egyptian officials. The lid of the first sarcophagus was lifted, revealing another, on which lay linen coverings and bouquets. These were removed, revealing a work of unexampled beauty. This second carcophagus [sic] bore an effigy of the God Osiris, decorated from head to foot and embellished with multi-colored pieces of glass.

The carcophagus itself was covered with a thin layer of gold on a marble ground and adorned with the wings of the serpent goddess Buto and the vulture goddess Nechbet. After this sarcophagus had been scientifically examined, it was removed from the first—an extremely delicate operation, as the one fitted exactly inside the other and the delicate ornamentation might easily be injured by the slightest touch.

Pyramids of Sakkara

Two Colossal Statues of Rameses II.

History of Those Remarkable Relics of Antiquity.

Hypostyle Hall a Wonder of the World.

Other Interesting Things To Be Seen In Egypt.

Entrance gate to the temple of Khens at Karnak

Basle, Switzerland, March 25.

The Pyramids of Sakkara may easily be visited front Gizeh by donkey, but having deferred this visit for another day, we took the train for Bedrashen and from there went over the desert. This little village was formerly the centre of Old Memphis, the famous capital of ancient times, built of sun-dried bricks, made out of Nile mud, Memphis stood on the borders of the Upper and Lower Kingdoms, and was founded by Menes, the head of the First Dynasty, about four thousand years before Christ. The narrow streets of this large city were a half a day’s journey long and extended as far as Gizeh, its several quarters being known as the “South Wall,” the “White Wall,” and the “House of the Spirit of Ptah.”

But as Thebes rose Memphis declined. It was a shining mark for Cambyses, who took it by storm, and it competed for a season with Alexandria; and, at the time of Augustus, though many of its buildings were laid low, it was still a populous city. The Mohammedans appropriated a large part of its ruins when they built their mosques and dwellings on the right side of the Nile, but its vastness could not be used up in a moment and up to the 12th century it is said to have been a wonderland; finally, however, every stone was taken to make Cairo the beautiful city it is today.

A Few Notes From Egypt

Nile at Luxor. Black and white photo showing a sailing boat on the river.
Nile at Luxor. Photo: Mohamed Amine ABASSI, https://www.flickr.com/photos/78459980@N03/14192228773

Life Is Still Gay in Luxor and the Titled Visitors Are Many

Luxor, Upper Egypt—The golden sunshine and balmy breezes prevailing, Luxor, fringed with its great ribbons of green vegetation, is just now at its heydey, even though the curtain is being slowly rung down on the Egyptian season. It forms the busy passing point for hosts of tourists who are returning from the upper Nile and those belated travelers who are hurrying up to Assouan, Wadi Halfa and Khartoum. Belgian colors are in favor everywhere for King Albert and Queen Elizabeth of the Belgians have been among the noted visitors of recent days. The queen is accompanied by Countess von der Steen and her sister. Princess Rupprecht of Bavaria, who has come down from Assouan.

“Antiques” Made to Order

Header for the article, featuring forged examples of a canopic jar, scarab, and figurings of a cat, dove, and fisherman in a boat.

The fabrication of forged antiquities has become one of the most profitable industries of modern Egypt. Every year more and more wealthy American and European tourists go to the sunny and salubrious land of the Pharaohs. Practically every one of these tourists wishes to take away some relic of the ancient Pharaohs as a souvenir. To supply this demand the modern Egyptians are working night and day making very attractive articles in the ancient style. The Egyptian law now requires that every person finding antiquities shall report the fact to the government, which reserves the right to purchase them. This law really favors the antiquity forgers, for they represent to their customers that they are offering them contraband goods, which offer usually has the effect of whetting the appetite to buy.

Domestic Comedy on the Nile

"He mixed her a drink; then he brought her two balloons and a false face to play with. Later, I found her singing softly to herself."

Keeping house in Egypt is great fun, if you can keep your temper. Servants a-plenty are a certainty, but what they will do next is always uncertain. Here a noted Egyptologist tells some amusing stories of his household difficulties.

BY ARTHUR WEIGALL,

Former Inspector General of Antiquities for the
Egyptian Government.

IN ordinary, amiable conversation with people whose interests have little in common with mine, I often find that the introduction of the subject of servants supplies just that touch of nature which makes the whole world kin. When I have been talking about my life in the land of the Pharaohs, for example, I have observed that some stray remark of mine about my domestic staff has kindled the light of interest in eyes that were rolling upward with boredom; and therefore I offer no apology for making this my present theme. Like illnesses and operations, it has an almost universal appeal.

What happens in Egypt, of course, is outside the scope of everyday experience in the West; yet servants are servants wherever they be, and certain of their qualities—such as that of smashing things with a light heart—are common to the whole species.