In our last we left the homeward bound travellers at the Grand Hotel upon the Desert of Suez, from whence we are now to trace their progress to Marseilles, which port they will, in all probability, have reached simultaneously with the publication of this article.
Continuing the route across the Desert, as indicated by the stations established by Mr. Waghorn, we arrive at the close of the second day from Suez, at Cairo, the modern capital of Egypt. At this celebrated city, and in its immediate vicinity, there is so much to arrest attention that the traveller will, in all probability, feel disposed to delay his further progress homewards while he visits the Pyramids of Gizeh, about 10 miles to the south-west; the citadel, situated to the east of the town, and remarkable as having been the scene of the slaughter of the Mamelukes—completely commands the city, but is itself covered by a high range of mountains in the rear, where & square fort, erected by the Pacha, is garrisoned by 400 men; the obelisk at Matarea (the site of the ancient Heliopolis); the tombs of the Mamelukes; the forests of agate in the rocky hollows of the Desert; and the summer palace of the Pacha. Within the walls of the citadel the chief objects of interest are the new palace of the Pacha, the mint, Joseph’s well, and the magnificent view from the ramparts, extending over the whole city, the land of Goshen, the Pyramids, &c., and bounded only by the eternal Desert. Hill’s family hotel at Cairo, will afford the traveller every possible comfort during his sojourn, and nothing requisite to his enjoyment or further convenience on the route, will be asked for there in vain. Houses, furnished or unfurnished, may also be had by those who prefer such accommodation; and for the satisfaction of invalids, there are English medical men in regular practice to be met with.
At Boulak (1), the harbour of Cairo (from which it is distant about two miles), the travellers embark upon the Nile for Atfeh, at which place this magnificent river is connected with Alexandria by the canal of Mahmudie. The time occupied in reaching Atfeh, generally occupies about four days. On the travellers arrival at Atfeh (2), a change of boats takes place under the superintendence of persons appointed by Mr. Waghorn, to attend to the concerns of those journeying by his route; and the necessary transfer being accomplished, we now embark upon the the canal of Mahmudie, which runs 60 miles in length, 90 feet in breadth, and 18 in depth, through a perfectly level country, not requiring a single lock in the whole distance. It is stated that 150,000 men were simultaneously employed in excavating it, and that it was finished in the space of twelve months from the commencement. The voyage from Atfeh to Alexandria is generally accomplished in 12 hours, and one of the first-class boats, with two cabins capable of containing six or seven persons, can be hired for about ten dollars for the purpose.
The modern town of Alexandria is surrounded with high stone walls, strengthened by a deep fosse, and is entered by four gates. Its appearance from the harbour is decidedly European. On arriving at Alexandria (3), the boat is met by persons appointed by the establishment, and the travellers are at once safely conducted to the hotel. While the necessary delay occurs for the transfer of their luggage to the steamer which is to convey them to Syra, they cannot be more agreeably employed than in visiting the many objects of historic interest in its immediate vicinity—Cleopatra’s Needle, Pompey’s Pillar, the catacombs, baths, &c., will each afford matter for amusement and information.
The traveller is now once more afloat; but it is upon the blue waves of the Mediterranean that he is borne onward to his desired port, and in due course arrives at the island of Syra, belonging to the King of Greece. Here again the baggage must be shifted ere further progress is accomplished. The necessary delay for this purpose enables the traveller to rest and recruit himself after his fatigue, and also to see all that is worth notice on the island, which, by the way, is little better than a barren rock, without a tree or road upon it to diversify its monotonous appearance. From hence a regular steam-boat will transport him through the Straits of Messina to the island of Malta (4), which feat is generally accomplished in from seventy to eighty hours.
Valetta, the capital of the island, is a handsome and well-built town, situated upon a promontory; its appearance from the sea is highly picturesque. From Malta, passengers are forwarded in 24 hours, by a Neapolitan boat, to Naples, where, after & short delay, boats belonging to the french government convey them op their route homewards, touching at Civita Vecchia and Leghorn, on their way to Marseilles (5). From this city the traveller can take the malle poste for Paris, which it reaches in 66 hours; or he may halve the fatigue of a continuous journey, by adopting the same mode of transit to Lyons, which he will reach in 36 hours. From either of these places the remainder of the journey home is conducted by the agent of Mr. Waghorn, whose care and protection only ceases with the safe arrival of the traveller in London. The whole period calculated for the journey from India to London by this route, is at present limited to one month.
The Illustrated London News, London England, Week Ending May 28, 1842